How to Support Your Puppies through the Group Learning Phase

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Once your puppies turn 6 weeks old, prepare for a real party! The pups are energetic, fun loving, exciting, and playful. They are sweethearts who crave your attention. They are curious and should be given lots of experiences- we are shaping their entire future RIGHT NOW! We call weeks 6-8 the Group Learning Phase, a time full of new neuro-connections and new experiences that shape the pup’s entire adult life!

PS for more developmental phases, just pull out your “Puppy Development Notes” from your Whelping Kit.

Why is it called the “Group Learning Phase?”

During the Group Learning Phase, each pup is creating patterns for his future behavior. The pups are developing social skills, mental health, attachments to dogs as well as humans, and more.

Who are they learning from? First- mom, second- littermates, and third- YOU! The primary caregiver and their first human parent!!

One excellent example of the lessons learned during this developmental phase is Bite Inhibition- learning how hard to nibble during play. Puppies learn to control the pressure of a bite by observing their siblings’ reactions to play biting. If a pup takes play too far and bites too hard, the sibling will yelp and freeze the game. The offending pup learns that biting too hard means the game will stop, so he chooses to bite gently. A pup who learns this skill will have successful play and therefore be accepted by all dogs he interacts with- not just now, but for life.

Puppies’ brains are working overtime during this age- creating new neuro-connections that will frame a dog’s behavior for life. The social interactions that a pup has during weeks 6-8 stick long-term for good or for bad.

It’s up to us, the ethical dog breeders, to make sure our puppies navigate this vital period successfully. If we do, the pups will know how to respond correctly to social situations with other dogs as well as humans.

Simultaneously Navigating the Fear Period

Another important developmental milestone overlaps with the Group Learning Phase- the Fear Period is also looming during this phase and can last to 11 weeks old.

What is the Fear Period? It’s a developmental stage when puppies are less open to new things- more likely to be scared by them. For example, when I was a kid, our dog HATED balloons. She would run and hide under my parents’ bed at birthday parties. Why? Because when she was a puppy, she had jumped on a balloon and it popped. The sound startled her and she never forgot it! That occurred during this exact developmental phase.

How can we help puppies through the Fear Period without lifelong terror?

Ethical dog breeders can provide desensitization exercises BEFORE this phase starts- beginning around 3-4 weeks old. Because the pups have already been exposed to sounds, experiences, textures, smells, etc. before the Fear Period begins, 1- they are more comfortable with a variety of items/sounds/experiences and 2- they have already learned the foundational skill of exploring new things with confidence instead of fear. It is vital to be gentle and careful in introducing each new thing to be sure that each experience is positive and fun for the puppies.

Our Whelping Kit teaches you how to conduct desensitization exercises successfully.

By the way, this is also a major reason NOT to send puppies home at 6 weeks old. Imagine if you were a little pup, just barely weaned, and your entire life changed RIGHT as you entered this phase. No good. By waiting until 8-12 weeks old, the closer to 12 weeks the better, we avoid sending puppies to a completely new situation during the Fear Period.

When puppies are ready to transition to their forever homes, be sure you educate the puppies’ forever families about how to gently introduce the new home, new family members, new dogs, etc. to the puppy so that he isn’t scared or intimidated. Slowly and gently introducing new things increase the success of a pup’s transition to his forever family.

Helping Each Pup to Be His Best Self

My next big question to answer is: How can I best support each pup during the Group Learning Phase so that they can be their BEST selves?

#1: Set up the puppy area to support learning and growth.

Provide TONS of toys. Be sure they offer lots of variety- some to encourage mental exercises and some to encourage physical exercise. All toys should build social opportunities between littermates and mom. Switch the toys often to provide variety and novelty. Boring toys limit brain activity and development.

Provide enough space for the puppies to really stretch and play. A small enclosure limits play. That’s the last thing we want during this phase!

#2: Let mom interact with the babies any time she wants to.

Mom is the best example for the puppies. She is a perfect role model of appropriate behavior and the puppies are always watching her. Give mom lots of time with the puppies so that they can gather all the life lessons that she has to teach.

#3: Spend time with the puppies every day, and encourage other people to interact with them as well!

Socialization with people of all kinds will help your litter learn to love everyone they meet. If a pup is not exposed to as many people as possible, they can develop specific fears. Have you ever seen a dog who didn’t like people wearing glasses? I have! You can avoid this for your puppies by inviting friends and neighbors to be around your pups- all ethnicities, all ages, someone in a wheelchair, someone wearing a heat, someone wearing glasses, someone riding a bike, etc.

One warning- encourage every visitor to sanitize their hands before handing the puppies in order to avoid spreading germs to them!

#4: Offer early training to your puppies!

Encourage your puppies’ brain development through early training! This is the perfect challenge for a pup that will offer just the right amount of learning without stressing the puppy. Plus, he’ll love the one-on-one time with you!

You don’t have to do everything I mention here, just take a minute to think about what is most important to your puppies’ future and do those steps. Here are some options for you:

• Look me in the Eye/Attending: Hold a treat near your eye. This will draw the pup’s attention to you- especially looking at your eyes. Give the treat when the pup is focused on you. It’s best to work on this one-on-one with each pup.
• Reward words: Say “Yes!”, “good”, and other praise words used for training along with petting the pup or giving treats. This will teach the pup that these words are positive through association with positive attention or food. This can be accomplished in a group setting.
• Sit before they receive food: Hold the food bowl high. At first, the pups will act crazy and excited for their meal. They will jump and bark and try to reach the food. Instead of giving the food, continue holding it high. Be still and quiet- don’t encourage the crazy behavior. Wait until the pups settle- then set the food bowl down. As you do this every single meal, the pups will settle faster and faster- learning the skill of waiting patiently. This can be accomplished in a group setting.
• Sit before you pet them: Same thing- when you enter the puppy area to play, the pups are likely to act crazy at first- fighting to get to the front to receive your attention. Wait until the pups settle- be still and quiet, not giving your attention until they are calm. Then pet them and begin play time. This can be accomplished in a group setting.
• Bite Inhibition: As you play with the pups, they will nip and nibble. This is normal puppy behavior. If a pup bites hard, the littermates yelp, stop playing for a bit, and resume play after the offending pup is more gentle. You can mimic this process. If the pup bites hard, say “ow!” loudly and suddenly, remove your hand, be still and end the game for a minute or two. When the pup is more gentle, resume the game. You can also teach a pup to bite only toys (not hands or fingers) by providing a toy to bite and redirecting him away from your hands. Never let a pup chew on your fingers for fun. This can be accomplished in a group setting, but may be a little easier one-on-one.
• Intro to Potty training: The Misty Method is the beginning of potty training, but it’s time to step it up a notch. You’ll notice particular times of day when the pups are likely to poop- after a meal and after waking from a nap are common ones. If you plan intentionally to take the puppies for outside play right when the poop is likely to happen, viola! Early potty training. Plus this makes it so much easier to keep the whelping area clean and smelling nice- in fact, I think this one saves me time and energy overall.
• Intro to Kennel training: At this age, puppies can begin to learn how to sleep happily in the kennel. Remember to be gentle- start with only 5-10 minutes in the kennel at a time. Make the kennel so cozy because this is the first time the pups will sleep without their siblings (each baby should be in his own crate)- using blankets, a stuffed animal (to mimic a littermate), and a comfortable temperature will help the pup be happy in the kennel. Time it just right- when the pups are sleepy and ready to nap. Expect the pups to cry and fuss at first. That’s why we start with just a few minutes at a time. Gradually increase the exposure when puppies are comfortable- eventually the pups will nap in the kennel for up to 2-3 hours.
• Intro to Grooming: Prepping a pup for lifelong grooming is an easy thing to do. Handle the pup’s mouth and muzzle, ears, tail, and feet for just a few seconds every day. We’re getting the babies used to the same kind of handling that will be required when they are groomed. Also great for vet visits by the way. This is individual training.

As you complete any steps towards helping your puppies excel, be sure to share that progress and effort with the puppies’ forever families! If you don’t tell them, they will never know how hard you’re working to give their puppy the very best. You have to show off a bit.

Don’t forget to teach the family how you are training the puppy so that they can carry on the amazing things you’re teaching when the pup joins their home!

To Do List during the Group Learning Phase

What to-do’s should you be working on during the Group Learning Phase? Pull out your “Free Gift” from your Whelping Kit.

• Beginner training- work on something every day to help your puppies learn and grow.
• Vet wellness check- this should be completed somewhere between 6-8 weeks old. If there is a pup with an umbilical hernia or any other problems, you’ll want to know about it as you look for his or her forever home. Plus, the vet should give your pups their first round of vaccinations- very important to avoid those contagious diseases. Be sure to record exactly what vaccinations they receive using the two documents from your Whelping Kit- one for you, one for the pup’s forever family.
• Feed 2 meals a day, eating dry kibble. Keep these at a consistent time each day to establish a consistent routine. Mom can nurse if she wants to give the pups a little snack. She should still get time with the babies each day to teach them through her great example.
• Clean the puppy area every day, keep things sanitary and smelling nice. Yes- that takes TONS of cleaning but you can do it, and it’s worth it for your babies. This also decreases the chances of your litter getting sick.
• Keep going on familiar desensitization exercises, but don’t introduce new things during the Fear Period. Make every exposure gentle and positive.
• Pups can have baths. Use gentle soap. Dry and warm them afterwards. Make bath time positive!
• Weigh the puppies every week. They should gain weight at each weigh in.
• Give the pups plenty of space- indoor and outdoors, as long as the weather is good.
• Continue deworming on the schedule that your vet recommends.
• Socialize the puppies every day with lots of play time! Remember to be careful not to spread any germs to the puppies.
• Trim the puppies nails every other week.
• Check if the collars are too tight at least once a week, maybe more often.
• Don’t forget to communicate every couple of days with the families who have reserved puppies. Keep them updated and build those relationships! Use your “New Families Information” chart from your Whelping Kit to keep everyone organized.
• Take advantage of the Group Learning Phase by helping the puppy meet his future forever family even before it’s time to go home… this can be done even if the family lives across the country. If families choose to do so, they can mail you a scent item- a pillowcase, or an old t-shirt, something that they used a lot so it has their scent on it. Be sure they don’t send something that they love- the puppy may chew it or ruin it. Be sure to mark each scent item that is given to you and don’t mix them- we want to preserve the scent they came with. When you have one-on-one time with any particular puppy, let him smell the scent item from his family. You can also put it into his individual kennel. He will learn and become familiar with his forever family even if he has never met them before. This will help him acclimate to his new home easier. 
  • Want more information about how to find the best family for your puppies? Learn more here!

This is a great list, you’ll be busy- but so happy as you see the puppies progress.

Avoid these Problems during the Group Learning Phase

My least favorite topic- let’s go over the possible problems that you could face when your pups are 6-8 weeks old.

• By far the most common problem during this phase is caregivers giving up on cleaning the puppy areas. I know, it’s a ton of work! I know, it’s constant and you have to be super vigilant. I know, one puppy poop can make the whole house smell like a stinky diaper. I STILL insist that the best way for puppies to be raised is in a clean, sanitary, and smelling nice environment. Besides, it’s better for your family and shows your customers that you truly care for the pups. No matter how much work it is, it is vital to keeping illness away. I would never allow my babies to be raised in filth. We MUST keep the puppy environment sanitary no matter how hard it is to do so.
• Parvo and other contagious illnesses. As discussed before, exposing the puppies to other dogs, dogs’ feces, or any contaminated surface can cause deadly illness in puppies. Keeping the dogs home, asking visitors to wash their hands, keeping the puppy area sanitized, and vaccinating the puppies can help decrease risks. Remember that a pup is not fully vaccinated until he has had 3 rounds of vaccinations- including his rabies shots, which is usually completed around 12-16 weeks old depending on your vet. NEVER skip vaccinations!
  • Learn more about how to avoid the most common puppy illnesses HERE!
• The vet may discover a health issue during the wellness check, such as an umbilical hernia (that’s where the umbilical cord doesn’t heal properly, leaving a tiny weak spot in the abdomen where you can feel the squishy guts instead of muscle). No matter what the problem is, if a vet identifies any issue with a puppy’s health, tell the family immediately. Communicate clearly, allow the family the opportunity to select a different pup if they would prefer to, and discount the price for a pup with any physical defects. Be sure that you are finding a family that can meet any needs he or she may have. If there is no family who can meet her long-term needs, the breeder is responsible to be her loving forever home and care for her.
• Parasites. Be sure to keep up on your vet’s recommendations for routine deworming to prevent any parasite infestations. Remember that parasites are communicable to humans- meaning you can get them too, so wash your hands a lot! If you see signs of parasites, visit the vet quickly for a fecal float. We discussed this in more detail in the previous module, so flip back there if you need a refresher.
• Diarrhea. Here is a whole post about how to handle puppy diarrhea.
• Collars get too tight very quickly- consider checking them at least once a week, maybe more often.
• Injuries from falls or rough play. Falling is very dangerous for puppies and could cause long-term damage. Rough play can cause injuries to eyes, ears, or other delicate body parts. If a pup is hurt, inform his family immediately, always have him vet checked even if you think the injury isn’t too bad, and never send a puppy home with an injury- keep that puppy with you until she is healed and then she can transition to her forever home.

You’re ready to navigate the Group Learning Phase successfully. You are raising your puppies to be their very BEST and your efforts will have life-long positive effects for the puppies you love!!!